Hot Flavours: Andhra Bhavan, Aniar 2.0, Mihu's Alt Aged Cheeze and more

Having seen Ireland get its first Somalian, Uzbek, Uyghur and Japanese okonomiyaki and omakase restaurants last year, Hot Flavours is looking forward to even more menus in 2024 that have dishes on them we’ve never tried before.

It was certainly love at first bite when we kicked the New Year off in Andhra Bhavan, a new southern Indian restaurant residing at 85 Marlborough Street, Dublin 8.

Eschewing the usual curry house staples, we shared a (no childish sniggering, please) Ghee Roast Masala Dosa pancake, a pizza-like Cheese Utappam and some savoury Sambar Vada donuts and enjoyed every morcel.

With some equally exotic art on the walls, it really felt like an out of continent experience.

Over in Galway, JP McMahon is offering even more of an immersive dining experience with the reopening of Aniar 2.0 earlier this month, following an extensive refit of its Dominick Street premises.

Already the deserving owner of a Michelin star, JP’s cooking has always pushed the culinary envelope without disappearing up its own rump.

There’s also great excitement that Cúán Greene, who was formerly part of the Noma Copenhagen crew, is back home and planning to open his own Ómós restaurant, guesthouse and four-acre farm in Abbeyleix.

Sign up to his excellent foodie newsletter at omos.substack.com.

Meanwhile, if it’s intentionally poor service and rude staff you’re after, novelty food franchise Karen’s Diner is now open on Dublin’s O’Connell Street.

Already a big hit in Australasia and the UK, the grub when it’s finally plonked down in front of you is meant to be pretty decent.

“Think you’re ready?” they say. “Not a chance, that Irish charm won’t work on us.”

To maintain a degree of decorum there’s a ban on racist, sexist, homophobic, ableist and body shaming comments and food fights.

 

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In other 2024 foodie trends, we’re delighted that SuperValu has become the first Irish supermarket to stock fresh goldenberries, a sweet n’ tart superfood that’s often compared to gooseberries but is actually related to the tomatillo.

Becoming more common here too are palm hearts, which are a key ingredient in Brazilian pastels and used as a vegan replacement for crab.

There’s also a growing trend in Ireland for plant-based cheese with Sons Of Butchers Notzarella, Violife Prosociano, Flying Squirrel Camembert, and the Mihu Alt Aged Cheeze range – see below – all on the Hot Flavours recommended list. irishvegan.ie/vegan-cheese has an extensive list of what’s on offer.

Keep your tastebuds peeled as well for fresh tamarind, chayote squash, celery root, maitake mushrooms and smoked-spicy Guajillo peppers.

Tipple Of The Month:

Lucky Saint 0.5% Unfiltered Lager

Hot Flavours wouldn’t have been the most enthusiastic Dry January participants – pubs aren’t just for Christmas! – but when we do go the low or zero alcohol route this virtuous lager, brewed in Bavaria under Germany’s strict Purity Law, is our No. 1. The Hallertau hops mean that it’s full of flavour and at just 53 calories is kind to those new year, new you waistlines. It was the star turn recently as the No. 27 Shelbourne Bar launched its new low and zero alcohol drinks menu, which includes an ace Apple Green Zing mocktail with a real ginger beer bite.

Great Irish Things to Eat:

Mihu's Alt Aged Cheeze Smoked Paprika

The days of vegan cheese tasting like a bar of soap are over with some plant-based alternatives that are just as scrummy as their milky counterparts. Among those raising the bar here are Mihu’s Alternative Cheeze who use choice ingredients like almonds, cashew nuts and Himalayan pink salt to produce aged veggie cheeses with real character. The Curry, Tamari and Pesto ones are great, but their Smoked Paprika Cheeze wins by dint of its colour, easy slice–ability and fiery kick. You’ll find the Mihu crew at assorted Cork markets and mihus-alternatives.sumupstore.com/products for nationwide online shopping.